We are building a framed grow light planter width dimensions of 21” wide, 19” tall and 6.25” deep.

Table Saw:
1. Begin by setting the fence on your table saw to rip our 1 x 4 down to 2.5 inches wide. You can skip this step if you can find a 1 x 3 it will already be sized down to 2.5 inches.

Miter Saw:
2. Set your miter saw to cut at 90 degrees.
Mark the 2x6 to a length of 20 inches and make the cut. Repeat this process one more time.

3. Set your miter saw to cut at 45 degrees.

4. Using your speed square mark a 45 degree line on the ripped 1 x 4 and make your first cut.

5. Measure 21 inches from the longest point of the cut end of your board, mark the edge of the board because you will need to flip the board over and use the mark to measure the next 45 degree angle.

6. Repeat this process once more at 21 inches and twice more at 19 inches.

The most important thing at this point is to make sure both 21 inch pieces are the same length and that the 19 inch pieces are the same length. Your joints will not match up if they are not the same length.

Hacksaw or hand saw:
7. Measure and cut from the dowel rod 8 individual pieces each 1.5” long.


Now we will cut the pattern. Your goal here is to cut a perfect 90 corner into this piece of wood that will be used to hold the frame corners together until the glue dries.
For this process a 1 x 4 x 6 inches will work very well.

1. Measure the length of your pattern stock and mark the center of one side.

2. Place your carpenter square in the center of the length of your board and about halfway up the width of the board. Mark the pattern stock along the outside edge of the carpenter square.

3. Your pattern stock now has a large notch drawn in the center of it, at the top of the notch using a 1” spade or hole bit, drill a hole in with the top of the notch being the center of the hole.

4. Take your jig or circular saw to cut along the lines completing the notch.

5. Check your work by placing the carpenter square into the notch and make sure that both outside edges of the square match to the pattern.

1. Apply painter tape about six inches from the end of the first board and cross over to the second board that you will be glueing together, this makes for an easier fit and prevents the glue from bonding to other surfaces.

2. Apply a light amount of water to the two cut ends prior to applying glue.

3. Apply a thin coat of glue to each cut end and position the newly formed corner into the jig.

4. Check the fit and once you are satisfied allow the glue about 24 hours before working with the corner. If you have space you can remove the pattern and repeat the above process to build the other half of your frame. Come back tomorrow to join both halves as you created the first two corners. Allow another 24 hours for the glue to dry before handling the frame.

5. Lastly, staple all joints from the back of the frame to secure.

Attaching the Planter Shelf
1. Position your two 2x6x20 boards on edge about 16” appart, if you have space position your frame on the work area at the end of the 2x6's with the backside facing up with the 19” sides lining up with the 2x6’s.

2. Apply a light coat of water to the 2x6’s and the 19” sides of the frame, only apply glue to the area of the frame that will be resting on each 2x6.

3. Place the frame glue side down unto the 2x6 edges. Line up the outside edge of each 2x6 with the outside of the frame.
Mark four locations along the frame that will be used to place fasteners through the frame and into the 2x6’s.

4. Using a ⅛” drill bit drill a pilot hole into one of the marks made earlier. Place a 2” screw into the pilot hole to hold the alignment of the two pieces while the glue dries and you repeat this process 7 more times until all eight screws are in place.

To create a finished, polished look we will be removing the screws and replacing them with dowel rods. The next step is optional for anyone planning to paint the lighted grow frame. (See video for reference)

1. Remove a 2” screw and drill a 5/16” hole about 1 5/8” deep in the hole vacated by the screw.

2. Spray a light amount of water at the hole and lightly wet the dowl. Apply wood glue to the dowel and place the dowel into the hole.

3. I used a piece of scrap wood and a rubber mallet to force the dowel into place. Repeat this step 7 more times.

Place the light bars under the top ledge so they shine down onto the shelf. Screw them in place. Tip: be mindful of which side your cord will hang down.

Installing keyhole hangers:

I used the 1 1/2” spade bit to allow for the framed grow light to sit flush when installed; the keyhole hangers were placed 16” inches apart , I did check for stud spacing prior to installing the hangers. The framed grow light weighs 8 to 9 pounds as built, adding plants will make this a medium load wall hanging.

Surface preparation:

Sand the entire piece with 80 grit sandpaper to remove any saw marks and to bring dowel heads flush with the frame. I used a 300 grit sandpaper to remove all scuffs and leave a smooth surface ready for paint.