How to Build a DIY Pallet Bar

This DIY Pallet Bar adds a unique, custom space for parties, BBQs, and more in your home or backyard. In this step-by-step tutorial, learn how to build this pallet wood project with a beautiful herringbone-patterned bar top.

Gatherings are great for having fun and creating great memories. A home bar is an excellent place to make some of these memories. A friend asked me to help him create this environment and build a home bar. I was asked if I would consider using pallets for the unique, textured look.

This project sounded like one that I would enjoy participating in, so I accepted his request, and we began. I documented my process to guide you to create your own pallet wood bar.

Facebook, Instagram, and Pinterest are excellent sources for finding your desired pallet bar idea or your own bar.

Let’s start with the tutorial, build this bar, and create some memories.

Step 2: Materials and tools needed.

We will use pallet wood to keep the project affordable and unique. The bar top will be covered with several coats of polyurethane.   We have two pallet styles for building the bar—one with a plywood deck and a standard pallet.   

The tools needed for this project are listed below:

Step 3: Building the base of the bar.

Building the base will require eight pallets, of which five must match.  The pallets I use have deck boards extending beyond the stringer; I will remove the overhanging wood from five.  Disassemble three and remove or drive home any nails that remain in the stringer.

1. Measure the width of the stringer on one of the assembled pallets. Using this measurement, measure from the end and mark six stringers from the disassembled pallets.
2. Using glue, wood clamps, and screws, scab the loose stringers of two of the remaining pallets.  Start by applying glue to the broad side of the stringer; do not apply glue to the area between the mark and the short end of the stringer.  Take an assembled pallet and turn it so that the stringers are positioned horizontally and the top of the pallet is facing away from you and mark it “Left side”.  
   Now place the stringer with glue on the bottom of the top stringer on the pallet and clap it into position with the marked area protruding from the left end of the pallet.  Once the clamps are in place, apply four evenly spaced 2 ½” screws into the strings to strengthen to bond.  Prepare two more loose stringers and place one on the top side of the middle and bottom strings of the pallet you just clamped and screwed the first stringer.   
   To summarize, the pallet should have three stringers added.  The first is attached to the bottom of the top stringer; the other two should be placed on top of the middle and bottom stringers. Repeat this process on a second pallet, mark it “Right side” and have the stringers protruding from the right end of the pallet.
3. Butt the assembled pallets together, taking care to make sure that the pallet marked left is on the left and the right is on the right.  Take a deck board and temporarily attach the assemblies. Attach it to the stringers and on the opposite side of the added strings.  Make sure each of the pallets fits flush; square if necessary.  Measure the space between the added stringers on each of the three leaves.  Cut loose stringers to your measurements and scab them into place as instructed above.  Be sure to check for square and level before applying screws.  Remove the deck board now that you have the stringers in place.

4. Now, we have to cut a pallet to eighteen inches and scab it to the end of the assembly on the right side of the bar. This is the base for the leg on the right end of the bar. A support piece will need to be installed vertically to cap off the end of the base.

Step 4: Build bar top frame

We are ready to build and install the corbel supports for the bar top.  Each end of the bar currently contains the horizontal portion of two corbels. Additional corbel locations must be cut out using a circular or reciprocating saw to create cutouts to insert more supports.  Use pallet stringers to cap the corbels and create the outer border of the bar top.

Cut and place ¾-inch plywood over the framework to complete the base of the bar top.

Step 5: Finishing the bar top

Lay a deck board on the plywood at the outer edge of the bar top and measure from the top of the deck board to the bottom of the bar top border. My measure was 3 inches.

Rip plenty of planks to encase the outside edge of the bar top.

Begin placing the trim pieces created earlier to the outer edge of the bar; I used glue and nails.  Stop short of the area where the curve begins. The piece wrapped around the outer edge of the bar will have to be kerf cut before it can be molded around the curve.  Measure the curve; the kerf cut area will need to be three inches longer than the curve to prevent the wood from breaking as it comes into and out of the curve.

To prepare for the herringbone pattern, we will build a frame on the bar top for the pieces to fill.  I ripped the deck board to 1 ½” for the frame and the pieces.  Unable to bend the boards around the curve, I glued and clamped three deck boards side by side, and after everything dried, I placed this piece on the edge of the curved bar top and traced the curve to the underside of the board, then cut along the line. On the cut board measure 1 ½” in from the cut and mark from the outside of the cut, once finished cutting you should have a piece that will frame the curve, sand, or file when needed to fit.

The herringbone pieces are 11 x 1 ½ x 5/8.  Work your way toward the curve.  Look at the pic to see how I handled building the pattern in the curve.

Step 5: Finishing touches

1. Add the battens to the base of the bar
2. Finish bar top supports
3. Add casters
4. Build the server’s counter and storage shelf.  They are 18” wide and long enough to fit tightly from end to end along the inside of the base and are covered with deck boards installed at 45-degree angles.  These two pieces were installed after the bar had been installed to reduce the bar’s weight while moving it and allow for room to get the bar through doorways.
   1. The storage shelf is 3 ½” above the floor
   1. The server counter is 36” above the floor
5. The finish will depend upon the final destination for your pallet bar. If the bar will be placed in a garden space or on the patio, you will need to use an exterior varnish to waterproof the finish, but if it is going to the man cave or garage, you can utilize a water-resistant finish.

2x4s are a great source for the pieces to populate your herringbone pattern. Whether you are looking for pieces as narrow as 1 1/2″ or as wide as 3 1/2″ wide, your 2×4 pieces fit the bill. I will use pieces 1 1/2″ wide to populate the pattern on this coffee table.

The pattern will be placed horizontally along the length of the table, but it would be just as easy to place it vertically if you prefer.

The lengths will be up to 18″ within the pattern. If you aren’t familiar with starting a herringbone pattern instructions can be found in this Herringbone pattern step-by-step tutorial.

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• Learn How to Make a Corbel Table to refresh a corner of your home with a cute, easy new space!
• Consider making a DIY Grow Frame for your indoor plants or as a gift to your favorite plant parent!
• This Pallet Bookshelf for Kids is a simple, convenient project! The bookshelf can sit on a table or be installed on the wall to reduce clutter.
• When you really want to give an area a makeover, consider adding a DIY Brick Kitchen Nook! It can be done in a weekend for a fun, refreshing project!